
13h

13h
3D printed droid head from Star Wars
Finished up the iron warriors army I will be taking to this year's London grand tournament More pictures to come of close ups of the units and models
Here is one of my converted, White Scars Bladeguard Veterans. Really happy with how it turned out, and I pushed myself when it comes to sculpting.
Here is my converted, Armageddon, White Scars Captain, with relic shield.

3d
Wilderfiend counts as Avatar of Khaine for my Malice worshipping Eldar. First time painting a monster instead of dudes in armor and loved it. Incredible model.

3d
Sorta limited palette of white, titan buff, cad yellow light, cad orange, magenta, phthalo blue and raw umber over a purple primer layer.
Just joined, and thought I'd share a few of my favorite models and busts Ive painted
Nearly finished painting this bloodthirster. It's been a fun project.
A gaming piece that I enjoy alot. It's very relaxing to modify a mini without having the fear to "breake" something. Todo: Metal, refinements, dirt, blood l, maybe slime
I did not want to really do human flesh tones for these cyclopes (cyclopses?). So I decided on a color trio and figured I should give them metallics as a fun twist. Naturally I had to do bronze, silver, and gold. Unintentionally, the color progression is from my favorite sculpt to my least favorite sculpt of the lot. Gold is by Dark Sword Miniatures Silver is for the Mortal Gods game Bronze is by Reaper All three will serve whatever needs I have for cyclopes but my particular incentive is to run them for Warriors of Athena

5d
I've been practicing a weathered and beaten NMM in various ways. Mainly for adding texture to larger models and busts. But I want to find a way to apply it to smaller minis too. I got 5 Terminators, in a Crimson Fists colour scheme of my own design, that I've been testing methods out on. Making it look like there's a vertical line of light going up his middle was purely an accident. A lucky outcome from the angle I shot the photo at. But I'll definitely be trying to keep that cause it looks cool.
Shout out to @NuRD Hope you like this cover
Just done the evil fire, quite happy with it!
Have you ever looked at a mini and have it inspired you to make an entire army around it? For me it was a ork released a more decade ago - the ork squadron commander from forge world. No barbaric armour, no primitive knifes just a orc dressed as a ww2 pilot with a leather jacket, a handheld radio and what looks like a flare gun. I really liked it, I liked it so much I thought to my self what if I could do an army of these orks. So I grabbed a ork boy body from assault on Black Reach. And sculpted a parachute in the front and back pack in the back. Then I sculpted 4 more. Then I made a sprue and cast them in 5 with resin , (no 3d printers back then Boyz and girls) I even bought a box of stormboys to get appropriate heads. I bought a jet back then it made 3 aircraft types so I am in need for a Wazbom blaster sprue, then due to life the orks got boxed. It's a good think I did not make them back then at least I don't need to rebase them.
Last week, I did something dumb. I wrote a dumb Ork list, and through circumstances of friends and viewers helping out... I spent £600 on Ork DakkaJets... Im going to be building them and painting them to take them to a tournament (hopefully orktober but november latest) and making videos about the process, but ill be posting WIP updates excluusively here on Baselair - so if you want to follow along, you better follow to hitch a ride and be part of the airforce coming alive ;)
WIP of my Armageddon librarian kitbashed with wolf scout skald bits. Primed with Colour Forge wolfkin grey, base coated through the airbrush with Army Painter Wolf Grey air followed with a quick volumetric highlight of 50:50 AP Wolf grey and Vallejo Game air Wolf grey. The rest of the base coats were done with citadel contrast.
It’s about time I updated my Xenos Armies, started with the Genestealer Cults. There’s many models to paint and update, so won’t be display quality, but “speed painting +” which has been quite fun :) Video coming soon :D
Interesting character. Interesting figure to paint.
I combined two of Corey’s (@BarelyTabletop) miniatures into a mock FANGORIA magazine cover. His painted figures are reminiscent of the late fantasy illustrator, Frank Frazetta.

1w
I love working with limited palettes and have been so stoked to see the “Jorn” palette making the rounds the last few weeks. It’s a limited palette of phthalo blue, red iron oxide and white popularized by Jordan Richardson a.k.a. @lead_white. It’s great to see excitement for limited palettes in the mini painting hobby as I feel like it’s a tried and true approach in other art mediums but often overlooked in miniature painting. If you’re looking for other limited palettes to try, I’d suggest checking out the combination of magenta and yellow plus black and white. I specifically like quinacridone magenta (PR122) and cadmium yellow light (PY35). Just know that cadmiums should not be used through an airbrush as breathing the particles into your lungs is considered toxic. What really stretches the gamut of this palette may be surprising. It’s black. Black when mixed with yellow (especially a cooler non-orange-leaning yellow like cadmium yellow light) produces some surprisingly nice green tones. And magenta mixed with black yields lovely purple tones. In addition, magenta and white make some very vibrant pinks. And depending on the ratio, magenta and yellow make some nice reds and oranges. Add some black to the orange and you’ve got brown. You can do just about any kind of NMM metal too (but maybe not a convincing copper patina). This palette basically covers every hue in the entire color wheel which the exception of blue. But if you mix up a gray using the white and black and place it next to warm colors like red or orange and the gray starts to look a bit blue. Or make a gradient from purple to gray to green and the gray kinda looks blue within the gradient. I created a Baselair collection with my projects using this palette: thebaselair.com/collections/234478-limit… Give it a try and let me know what you create! EDITS: (Sep. 7 2026) If you want your grays as cool as possible, avoid Mars Black (PBk11) as it leans warm. A Carbon Black (PBK7) or Bone/Ivory Black (PBK9) should do the trick for keeping things on the cool side.
If you’re a miniature painter who struggles with your hands or wrists, this thing is a game changer. I’m in the early stages of rheumatoid arthritis, and one of the little things I’ve noticed affecting my hobby is something I never really thought about before: shaking paint bottles. Even using a traditional vortex mixer can be uncomfortable because you have to hold the bottle down against the mixer and keep pressure on it while it vibrates. That’s where the Gaahleri Voortex Mixer really impressed me. Instead of having to grip and press a bottle down, the Voortex Mixer does the work for you. It has three mixing speeds and a timer that can be set for up to three minutes, all controlled through a single, simple knob. And it accommodates multiple paint bottle sizes, which is especially nice if your paint collection is a chaotic mixture of Citadel, Army Painter, Pro Acryl, Vallejo, Turbo Dork, etc. 😂 I put it through a particularly good test with one of my Turbo Dork metallics, which had become pretty separated. After running it through the Voortex, the paint came out smooth, thoroughly mixed, and creamy — exactly what I want before putting paint to a miniature. The other big selling point for me is the price. It’s priced in roughly the same neighborhood as the more common vortex mixers you can find on Amazon, but the hands-free operation and adjustable speed/timer make it feel like a significant upgrade. For younger painters, that’s convenient. For painters dealing with arthritis, hand fatigue, wrist issues, or reduced grip strength, I think it could be a genuinely meaningful quality-of-life upgrade. And honestly, even if your hands are perfectly healthy, anything that makes the painting process easier and gets you spending more time painting and less time fighting your equipment is a win in my book. Bottom line: If you already use a traditional vortex mixer, the Gaahleri Voortex feels like an upgrade. If shaking bottles has started becoming difficult or painful, I’d seriously consider giving this one a look.
With most of my game pieces, I do a warm zenithal undercoating. With these critters, it's no different. Currently playing in a campaign where my warband can pretty reliably labour to craft arms and armor, so I am preparing pieces for when that assembly line starts rolling. These are more or less warband agnostic, but for them I will keep to a certain number of colors so that they maintain a broad adhesion when together on the table.
Hi! my first post here! I painted this guy this year and I loved the project.

1w
Riiiiiight. I said I was going to explain how I made the rocks for this project , so here we go. These aren’t stunningly beautiful works of art on their own, but projects like this used to intimidate me. They’re messy, the early stages look terrible, and you have to trust that everything will eventually come together. Fortunately, the process was much easier than I expected, and I ended up with a result I was happy to photograph. I’m sharing what I tried partly to remove that intimidation factor for anyone considering a similar project—and partly to record the experiment so others can build on it. Apparently my PhD training followed me into the hobby. Materials - Foam: I used the bead-style polystyrene sold at craft stores. I do not recommend it. Get some two-inch XPS insulation foam from a hardware store instead. - White glue: Any basic white glue should work, but I used Mod Podge. - Fine sand: This adds texture and helps disguise the foam beads. - Pigment powders: I used these to introduce some color variation beneath the final gray layers. - Flocking: I bought an inexpensive pack containing three shades of plastic “grass.” - Cheap nylon brushes: Get the cheapest ones you can find. This process will not be kind to them. - Craft paint: Black, white, and brown were enough for me. - Dish soap: Just a few drops for the final sealant mixture. - **Black or brown ink**: For making washes. A Better Second Attempt These were my second attempt at building rocks for elevation in Baselair photos. My first version consisted of jagged chunks of foam sprayed black. You can see them in action here They provided the height I needed, but they never really looked like rocks within the scene. Like many of us, I turned to YouTube in search of an easy way to improve them. My process was based mainly on this tutorial Shaping the Foam I began with the wrong kind of foam. Seriously: skip the craft-store bead foam and buy insulation or XPS foam. I divided the sheet into rough five-inch sections, then drew irregular outlines inside them to create a variety of rock shapes. Using repeated stabbing motions, I cut along the outlines without necessarily slicing completely through the foam. The next part was messy but surprisingly fun: I punched the pieces apart. The foam broke fairly easily along the cuts, and those jagged breaks created some useful natural-looking texture. I also dragged the blade across the tops and bottoms, randomly removing material to make the surfaces less flat and uniform. Sealing and Adding Texture Once I had the shapes, I made a slurry of Mod Podge and gray craft paint. At this point, my main goal was simply to turn the bright white foam gray and begin sealing its surface. This first coat taught me an important lesson about drying. I covered each piece completely and left everything sitting on old newspaper overnight. Predictably, the Mod Podge bonded with the paper, and parts of it came away with the rocks the next morning. A dish-drying rack—or anything that keeps the pieces elevated—would have saved me some trouble. For the second coat, I slowed down and worked on one side at a time. I also added fine sand to the new slurry. This gave the surfaces more variation and helped conceal the obvious foam beads. Building the Color Before applying another gray Mod Podge coat, I scattered several pigment powders across the rocks. The colors looked a little alarming at first, but they added subtle variation beneath the later layers. Then came the washes: black or brown ink diluted with water. I absolutely soaked those foam blocks. It only took a couple of coats before the crevices were dark enough for my liking. Finally, I mixed black and white craft paint into a medium gray and began drybrushing. I worked through progressively lighter grays, catching the raised textures with each pass. This was the point when everything finally started looking like rock. Trust the process. Adding the Grass For the final stage, I added flocking to one side of each piece. This meant I could stack and rotate the finished rocks to create quick visual variation within a scene. First, I mixed a sealant using roughly three parts Mod Podge to one part water. I added a few drops of dish soap to act as a surfactant and help the mixture spray more evenly. Shake it thoroughly, it takes some effort to combine. I brushed pure Mod Podge onto the side where I wanted the “grass,” then heavily scattered my darkest flocking across the surface. After shaking off the excess, I applied a layer of the diluted sealant. I repeated the process with a lighter shade of flocking, using it more sparingly. That created a little more depth than a single flat color would have. The Finished Scene I love seeing everyone’s cool squares on Baselair. Sometimes the miniature alone is enough of a spectacle, but I really enjoy building an entire scene around it. Scenery may occasionally pull attention away from the work I put into painting the miniature, but creating these little environments excites and fulfills the imaginative part of me—the same part that drew me to the hobby in the first place. There was probably a more elegant solution for these photographs. Still, I had fun experimenting. I’m not normally a crafty person, and I certainly don’t think of myself as especially creative. Hopefully, seeing how rough these rocks looked along the way makes this kind of project feel a little more approachable and perhaps inspires someone else to make a few rocks of their own. How do you approach the crafting side of the hobby? What kinds of scenes have you built or hope to build someday?
Working on my "anything can be a non-corporeal being if you believe in yourself" paint scheme.
A while back I commissioned a mothman and moth sprites from Alex at Warp Miniatures. He has a whimsical style that has the right balance of detail and canvas that I find a delight to paint. Working on my zenithal undercoat now and will pivot to painting soon
Started this for a Spira 48 event, basically two days to paint a Lucas Pinas miniature. Started with a painterly approach then filtered with inks via airbrush. Will resume deliberate brush strokes to finish.
Blood Angels Dominion Zephon
Model all finished (except for base which is getting printed). Really quite happy with the result honestly. First large model completed
Adding this here instead of as a finished project. I completed the plinths on these models this week. My late father-in-law did all of the Space Marines. He started playing 40k with me and a friend of mine around 2019-2021, somewhere in there. By the spring of this year when he passed, he had amassed an impressive collection of Space Marines, all painted up in Ultramarines livery. (By the latest count, it was around 7000points in total). Every model was carefully painted in sub assemblies and then put together and added to the display cabinet, waiting for a turn on the tabletop. When I put the hobby stuff collection together this summer, there was only one model kit that was still in the gray stage and it had just been started. There was no pile of shame, only a cabinet of pride. So I kept the models you see here from the collection and made plinths for them. 4 for his beloved granddaughters, one for my wife, and two for his close sisters.
I'm aiming to get a couple of extra vehicles painted ready for a weekend of gaming in a couple of weeks. I have a rag-tag sci-fi army consisting of minis and vehicles from various different indie companies, and this Dune Buggy is from Seb Games from the Void tabletop battle game. I run these as jeeps in Grim Dark Future One Page Rules, and as softskin technicals in Xenos Rampant. It's quite an old-school model, being a hybrid resin and metal kit. It's pretty straight forward and intuitive to piece together though, the only extra thing I do is to drill and pin the wheel pieces to the chassis, otherwise they'd be likely to break off under their own weight. I left the gunner and the roll cage separate for most of the painting. I intend to add a base like on my other dune buggy (pictured), partly for the look, but also it makes it sturdier as a whole. I'm just waiting on some cork sheets to arrive so I can build the base - for now it's drilled and pinned with 2mm brass rod which I've skewered into a big cork for ease of handling while painting - I'll also use this brass rod to secure it to the base. The way I painted it is to prime the model black, then zenithal white, but only concentrating on the main chassis. I then airbrushed a basecoat of MP Light Turquoise on the chassis, which is a very close approximation of the 'duck egg' colour used on a lot of engines and industrial facilities. I sprayed matte varnish over this because I would be using a stencil and wanted to ensure there was no risk of the paint lifting away. I attached a self-adhesive chevron stencil to the hood and then stippled on the pattern in Pro Acryl Burnt Red with a piece of sponge. I then blocked in all the wheels, suspension springs and metal areas in black, then painted the metals in Dark Silver, and picked out the headlamps in Bold Titanium White. I added weathering by sponge stippling a few shades of brown and black, and some Dirty Down Rust effect. Moving on to the crew, I painted their jumpsuits Dark Camo Green and their shoulder pads Mahogany. I also used Mahogany as the base colour for the gunner's skin. I used Shadow Flesh for the driver's skin. The jumpsuits were highlighted up by adding Dark Yellow Green into the base colour, with ivory added for the edges of the cuffs. The driver's skin was highlighted by adding Tan Flesh and Ivory, the hair was simply Yellow Brown with a Brown wash to shade it. The gunner's skin was highlighted by adding Shadow Flesh to the base colour, with final highlights including Olive Flesh. I fully assembled the model at this point and gave the whole vehicle a coat of gloss varnish. Once this was dry I painted on Streaking Grime - normally for vehicles I'd airbrush the whole thing, but I didn't want any on the crew or interior. Before this dried, I used a lint free cloth to wipe away the excess, leaving the grime effect in the recesses. I reapplied white to the headlamps, and then airbrushed white then yellow inks for the OSL effect. Finally the whole model was sprayed with matte varnish. The other vehicle I want to build and paint before my game is a second Mauler APC (Wargames Atlantic), which I bought this week - so we shall see how much spare time I have!
I used an airbrush for the cloth and smoke, and dry brushed the armor.

2w
Starting the OSL on the back reactor. Fluor red and AK Deep red mixed with the grey I use for the side bits (AK Rubber Black and Grimy Grey)
Playing around with photography a bit. Still terrible at capturing yellow 😅
I am Malenia, Blade of Miquella. And I have never known defeat Sculpt by Bulkamancer, Printed by WarriorPrints3D This turned into a fun project, though it was a pain to get references for the colours on the prosthetics, it turns out to be a combination of Ivory, Bright Flat Gold and Duller Gold. A really interesting thing about Malenia is her body containing the Scarlet Rot, an outer god of decay that has corrupted her demigod body. I wanted to show this a bit more than the game (due to the limitations of detail and legibility of fighting her), so the areas affected make a transition from pale flesh, to bruising, to necrosis, to finally a grey scabby texture that cracks open to the raw diseased meat below. The areas that this has been somewhat held back are the areas woven with Unalloyed Gold (created by her brother Miquella to aid her sickness), which has delayed the progression in her left arm. In fact, the only area with healthy skin tones is her left hand, the area most protected by Unalloyed Gold. Finally is the corruption sneaking in around Malenia, the Fungus killing the roots of the tree and Aonian butterflies swarming around her. Even her shard of the Elden Ring is becoming corrupted and overwhelmed, only a little Grace of Gold remaining among the Scarlet.
I paint a squig hopper every summer to track progress but I decided to also do a color challenge with this guy.

2w
Wip of a 3d printed hunter with a crossbow. I've had the model sitting around for a while and decided to paint it to test and idea for skin tones. She's... A little 'cheekier' than the models I normally paint, but has been fun to paint.
I wanted to capture the rotting beauty of death, how it can be painful yet peaceful. That all things pass on and have a second life, giving back to the earth. I really loved how the foggy eyes convey the emotion of a ghost: something might still be there but is slowly fading. I have painted this elk from Witchsong Miniature (Arsen, Horns of Hell).
This was my first Necron Canoptek I had ever painted back in 2023. I was new to painting, and I was learning how TMM worked and how to make a glowing effect with just my brush. I am proud to see how far I have come.
building model number 2 of my Ratling Kill Team™️and contemplating how to make a 25mm base interesting but not overwhelming and i had the idea of using two very different basing textures. I used the Monument Hobbies Coarse Grey Earth which is thicker with a coarse texture and then filled in around it with Bear Cavalry My Name is Mud which is thin and loose with varying sizes of grit mixed in. The plan is to let it dry and then prime over everything and hit it with a quick dry brush and Aggaros Dunes contrast 🤷

2w
Update on my Chaos Terminator Lord. Did a lot more work on the blue and gold, as well as sketched in my flames.
Not miniatures, but I printed out some props to try out some large scale painting and here are the WIPs
Enjoyed painting my first Warhammer anything! Grots for my Ork army. Can’t wait to keep pumping them out.

2w
With the most recent update, it looks like posted pictures will zoom to fill the frame unless they're already a square. Maybe y'all were already posting squares as a standard or something, but I don't know anything about that, so a bunch of my projects now have odd, cut off pics. Sorry about that! This post is just to say I know about it, and I'll to take new pictures eventually.
Well, results for the next tier (1k pts) are in. I started off pretty good in tier one, but hit a major slump in this tier. As expected, I completely fell off the board. They only post the top 5 per Race/Faction and top 10 overall. So there may be a chance I’m still in the running for “Top Aeldari Player” but I’m not sure. (Especially if my slump continues) I do still think I’m in the runnings for “Top Painted”, as so far, there is only one other painted army in the entire league. I played against them this tier (Necrons) and they look good! I think maybe my general style, basing, and use of bold colors is going to be to my advantage. We’ve now started Tier 3, which is 1250 pts. I’m well ahead of schedule, painting wise, as I’m currently sitting on 1750 pts worth of painted Aeldari.
10 years ago Relicblade was released with white metal pigs. The sculpts were full of character but customizing metal miniatures has always been difficult. With rising costs of shipping and tin as well as more renown for the game itself there has been a growing need for a different material. Recently the pigs were resulpted in plastic and re-released with updated rules and scenarios. I am so excited to own both types of pigs. Design of the new pigs has evolved style wise and with the design and new material there is now better opportunity for magnetizing these beauts. It is understandably tedious to execute but the way the wraps were designed near the hands of the pigs affords for a straight cut through.
Early wip,but i think the scheme works!

3w
Kitbashed by the amazing raegon_forge on Instagram, I get to be the one to put paint on this monstrosity. My request for it was a Night Lord's Terminator Lord that is Possessed, using the Saturnine Praetor as a base. It needs to keep the silhouette of a Terminator, as it's not a Daemon Prince (though I doubt any would mind if I played him as one). Also no tusks, cause I think the elephant tusks on Chaos Termis looks dumb. Hoo boy I got exactly what I wanted. Now I get to give it 110%

3w
WIP of a Knight Castellan, being painted entirely in NMM with OSL from the base. Yep, pretty mad to do something this size that way, but it's a good way to practice larger scale, adding texture, and keeping the lighting right even with texture. I've still got a ways to go to getting this to where I'm fully happy with it, but the me of 6 months ago would be ecstatic at this.
First big age of sigmar model
Just thinking over the hobby as a whole and the breadth of techniques, styles, modes, fashions, and camps folks hitch their wagons to. Arguments over edge highlights vs natural highlights, grimdark vs Eavy Metal, saturated vs desaturated can be daunting for a newbie. But something I think that needs to be the message is to just try. Get out there, get to it, paint away! Don't worry about if you're gonna win Golden Daemon your first try or your 100000000th time, just have fun and learn. Make mistakes, invent new colors, discover your voice and method. Don't worry if your latest marine will give poor Duncan an aneurysm, worry about if you learned something from it. Have fun, paint something weird, and keep improving.
While I am still working on the NeverEnding cyclops, I'm also looking ahead to my next project: a bunch of fun casino scatter! So here's a pre-production shot of these fresh off the printer. I'm particularly looking forward to painting the slot machines!
I have been working on this one a little while. Still, adding a few more painted minis to complete it. Almost done.
Actually just finished this for my son. He plays guitar and loves Orcs.
I used plastic card to make it look like the ice is breaking below the broadside's feet. I think the effect is working but I feel like it missing something. Maybe a little more height surrounding the brake?
Had some fun painting a couple Skaven heroes! Tried a little OSL on the grey seer too.
Working on my Kithguard army and dialing in the scheme!